Monday, 9 February 2009

The Taj and ladies of a certain age and persuasion!

The weekend starts very early indeed as I'm up at 5a.m. since the car to take us to Agra is scheduled for 6a.m. The roads are relatively quiet when we set off, however, at the first intersection underneath a flyover, I'm incredulous to see two elephants being walked by their mahouts through the junction. Lumbering but gently padding their way underneath this highway flyover. The first ones I've seen but I'm sure it won't be the last.

The journey to Agra is broken up with a stop at the Indian equivalent of a motorway service station but with souvenir shops. Two of the women shop and Cindy (the attorney) and I just have coffee and a nicotine fix. It took us about six and a half hours to reach Agra which is a real bummer as it's only about 350kms from Delhi and ostensibly connected by a highway (?).

We'd intended going to Fatehpur Sikri this afternoon and then going back to the hotel to book in, however, it appears that the monuments are closed there for a VIP visit, so we went to the Red Fort at Agra and the mini Taj Mahal (it was built before the real one and the basis of it).

Both are impressive in their own way and are duly photographed to death for posterity.

Back to our hotel and mistakenly I left the arrangements to the ladies. This was a mistake since we're booked into a 4 star hotel with attendant prices, I'm beginning to wish I'd gone with the youngsters to the foothills of the Himalayas. A feeling of frustration with their (the mature female American type) attitude is descending on me as I can't really handle the way they're dealing with the trip. This isn't a rose scented place and you can't expect to buy your way out of situations. You can of course throw money at everyone, but it just makes you look stupid. In this respect these ladies of a certain age are excelling themselves. One who shall remain anonymous has more colegen than a single factory can produce and notwithstanding the trout pout, the oriental expression where the facelift has been applied has me struggling not to stare rudely and I'm sure the Indians are equally agog. Mea culpa, I've taken this a bit far! The fact remains that on the tour with the guide (which they over-paid), I just went off and did my own thing as I can get myself around without having an army of hawkers following me as the ladies are having since they're seen as an easy touch!

It's easy to say no thank you my friend without too much ado, and if it's accompanied with a look of some anger (not genuine), the these people will leave you alone and go and look for some other gullible punter.

The night in the hotel was nice if over-priced as it came in at $140 plus tax, and although the bed and the bath were nice, I have to say that the youngsters apparently had a better time and had a whole lot more for infinitely less with no hassle and a 1st class train journey with meals et al. Never mind it can only get better!

Sunday morning

I can't believe I said it can only get better, but enough of that later. We did go to the Taj Mahal early in the morning (which was Cindy's idea and a good one to boot). The pictures you see of the TM are beautiful, but the reality is infinitely more than merely beautiful. I can, hand on heart, say I've never seen anything remotely close to the Taj Mahal for breathtaking beauty and in the early morning light it radiates to a ghostly marble/ivory. The gardens too are formal and spectacularly well maintained. The seat where Princess Diane was seated for the photograph she had taken is there for all to use, but I bet she didn't have to go on a six and a half hour drive to get there.

I'm not going to bore you to death with statistics, on it's construction or the rationale behind it, suffice to say it blew me away and I'm a cynical old fart. Just one thought, Aurangzeb the 4th son of the man who built it, Shah Jahan, turned out to be a right tosser as he killed his 3 elder brothers and imprisoned his father with his father's prison facing the monument he'd built for his wife Mumtaz. With family like that who needs an enemy?

In the early afternoon we got into the two sites at Fatehpur Sikri which is about another 30kms from Agra, and the whole set-up there is more impressive than beautiful, and it's scale has to be put into context of being something like square miles.

As it's Sunday, there are families galore out at the sites part of which is the fact that you can go into the holy chamber and tie a piece of cotton to the ornately carved windows inside the chamber which according to legend (or gimmick for tourists) will get you a wish granted. You're allowed 3, one for yourself and two for others/family! I think there must be more than a gimmick involved as the throngs of worshippers who pack this chamber are a combination of Sikhs, Hindus and Muslims. I guess it is like going to Lourdes for Catholics except you have to remove your shoes and socks and wash your hands prior to entering and must wear a head covering which is like the traditional muslim cap.

Sightseeing over, we have to set back on the journey to Delhi (not an inviting prospect), the ladies have dispensed more cash than the Brinks Matt robbers in their attempt to write off poverty in India, but it is only those who have been persistent (and there's plenty!). Virender the driver takes us on a fairly quiet route interspersed with town/villages and as it's Sunday their markets are open and business is brisk as a result of which our progress through these towns is pretty slow.

You can and will see a lot of poverty all around you in such circumstances, but for god's sake don't wind down your electric window of the posh car you're in and point your camera at the people snapping like some demented paperazzi. Even the poorest person has feelings and you don't have to be rich to be sensitive!

This was more than a little annoying to me as these poor people are not animals in a zoo, to be photographed as though they were. I made this point as several of the people on the roadside were justifiably annoyed at this intrusion on their life (poor or impoverished as they were). The trout pout maintained she didn't think of them as animals in the zoo, but her photographing them in this manner indicated otherwise.

Perhaps I'm getting too easily annoyed with this form of American tourism, but it is getting on my knockers and I do feel for the local Indians.

When we got back it was straight to bed as the journey back was even longer, 7 hours this time!

Monday morning and this is the first time we got to meet the youngsters and they've had a ball! God how I wish I'd gone with them, but hey hoh, I've seen the Taj Mahal and any future trips will be by train and if not with the youngsters (whose parents should be very proud of them as they are absolute gems) then I'll go alone.

Back at work on the Monday and one of the guys in our class is going for an job interview this afternoon, I spend some time with him such that he can do his interview in either Hindi or English. I'll see tomorrow if he's successful, I hope so! In the afternoon I decide to have another cut throat razor shave but this time in the street (when in Rome do as the Romans and all that), in any event two young journalists approach me in the barber's chair and ask if they can interview me as the sight is obviously unusual (i.e a foreigner having a shave in the street), they can but only when he's stopped shaving me! The article is entitled The Hindustani Scot. We shall see if and when it is published in a local paper. Although he must have been serious as there is photographs taken to go with it! Fame at last (I don't think so)

Friday, 6 February 2009

Another close shave

Getting to the HLC this morning was worse than ever as the traffic had ground to a halt and the journey which normally would take 15 mins took about 40, but there is Sufi (Indian) music on the car stereo so I'm cool with the transcendental effect by the time I get to the class. In any event all the guys in the class are equally late with the traffic and they have to come by bus which looks like a human sardine tin when you pass (?) it!


I decide that since Barbara is teaching teachers today I'll do a resume of the weeks work to make sure they all understand what we've been trying to achieve, and glory be they do, so we must be doing something right. Back for lunch and an early afternoon meeting to see if everything is okay with the volunteers by Bela the Country Director! It certainly is for me as the environment couldn't really be better, there were a couple of wee things needed sorting for the more mature ladies, but by and large it is going swimmingly.


Tomorrow there are 4 of us going to Agra, to see the Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri so we're going to book into a hotel and pig out on the necessary luxuries in life (i.e. a beer and a shower where you don't have to use a bucket). We should be back by Sunday night and work on Monday morning again to review the homework the guys have been given. There is a second meeting to work on some of the projects that the ladies are doing with the kids, but since I'm working with 16-23 year olds, the idea of cutting out shapes is not on my agenda! I take myself off to the salon for another cut-throat razor shave, if only such a thing were available in the Stoney barbers!


The idea of Indian food for breakfast, lunch and dinner is catching on with me and touch wood, there is no sign of the dreaded Delhi Belly. My boiler/stomach is (touch wood) doing the business.


There is a slightly worrying development, I'm beginning to take an unnatural interest in cricket as whenever the guys who work for CCS are loose, the cricket is on the t.v. and disconcertingly I'm enjoying it as well as the vegetarian menus.

Thursday, 5 February 2009

Roland makes a late night call to the flat and the girls call me to throw him out

Late last night Roland made an unsolicited call to the flat I'm in and decided to help himself to Shanta's Fererro Rocher chocolates and he also scoffed her Cheez-its without so much as a please may I help myself. I guess he can't help himself, since Roland is as you've probably guessed is a rat! He's a handsome rat but a rat none the less and is in Shanta's suitcase helping himself to her chocolates and cheese savouries! He must think he's just checked into the Waldorf Astoria, and been given the freedom of the food hall.

By the time I get dressed and shoes on my feet, the girls and I decide to get him into a jug, put a lid on it and let him go out the veranda door. This rat isn't going to leave this haven of food excellence without a struggle though and scarpers under Erins bed. You have to admire his persistence, but I'm not going to kill him as Granny would never forgive me! When we lift the bed he makes a dart for the lounge but the floor is marble and he's skidding around like a cartoon character and turns into the kitchen. I still can't get near him but at least we know where he is. He's parked himself in the cupboard with the gas canister and we can't shut the door as there's a hose leading to the cooker(?). The only solutiopn is to lock him in there and get the staff to get him tomorrow as it their role. He's obviously had his fill and is struggling under the weight of chocolate and cheesy bits he's scoffed. Shanta has to check out the rest of her suitcase but there is nothing else we can do, so everyone has their room door closed tightly and unless he can slither under a 2mm gap, we're okay for the night.

Back to school this morning and Babs and I have another good day with our pupils, I'm really learning a lot from her and can put it to use when she goes in two weeks. Yesterday we set them homework by writing down three questions and which they had to write the answers to and speak in front of the class this a.m. with their answers. One of the questions was who is the most interesting person you've met and why?

Dear readers I cannot tell a lie, four of them said I was and it would bring tears to a glass eye! It was genuinely unsolicited and moved me. Now all you guys who know me, will be saying the plonker's lying! Not so and I'm genuinely moved as the reasons were more to do with their being stimulated by our lessons!

No compulsory lessons today so I decide to go for the tattoo that I've promised myself. Some of the girls wanted to come along, but in the end only Lindsay can, so we get a rickshaw to the market area where this tattooist is supposed to be based. Linds notices a sign and we think I've got it cracked. Wrong!! There's a telephone number which I have to call and he tells me he'll be round in half an hour! When he gets round he suggests we go to our address to do the tattoo. Not a chance so he does it in the back of his van (which has no engine and is merely an advertising tool). The upshot is that after haggling, I tell him that if I like it I'll pay X and if I don't I'll pay Y. It's agreed and he sets to work, I can't believe I'm having this tattoo done in the back of a wrecked van which can no more move than fly. Lindsay takes some photos and when I get some technical advice I'll stick them up somewhere (No not there! on the site.) In any event the dye is cast and the deed is done, so I'm now sporting a Sanskrit tattoo which says Mother India!

This city is chaotic with cars, scooters, rickshaws, buses and lorries all honking their horn at every opportunity and in most cases just to make a noise! The fact is though I'm loving it! The experience that is! The paradoxes of Indian culture are extreme, but the people genuinely kind, and hospitable. The kids in the class all want to take me home to their families, but shit I'm only here for 8 weeks and the first one is almost gone already.

This weekend there's 4 of us going to Agra, but we have to take a car at 6a.m. on Saturday morning to get on the road before the traffic gets too much, and we'll check into a hotel for a night and then drive back on the Sunday. At least this way we can get a drink in the hotel! I'm looking forward to it (not the 3 hour drive) but the visit to the Taj Mahal and the other sites in Agra.

Wednesday, 4 February 2009

Oh Happy Days! Chicken and Fish in the one meal

I'm paired with Babs a retired school principal who's been having some difficulty with her placement, so she's been sent to St Trinians with me. Actually I should stop calling it St Trinians as nothing could be further from the truth. But hell why let the truth get in the way of a catchy headline!

Barbara and I seem to work well as I get the students to do the work she sets and she knows her stuff! Between us we'll crack this teaching stuff, though I have to remind her that the Indian way of spelling is the English way not the American it's colour not color and organization has an s not a z in it. We've given them some homework for tonight and will see how it pans out tomorrow when they return it. The students want us to go to the market with them on Friday but she has a training session for Indian teachers and I'm supposed to be at a lecture (I'm going to give it a miss and go with them).

After lunch we got another compulsory Hindi lesson and then a two hour talk with a professor from the Nehru University on the history of India which was really interesting and the time flew by. Most of the stuff he was talking about I knew anyway, but he put more colour to what I already knew, and the Amartya Sen book I have from the Scot in Exile helped me a great deal beforehand.

I note the snow in London and cannot supress a laugh as the temperature here is 78 deg F and I only need a tee-shirt, I suspect the Metropolis has ground to a halt with the snow being the wrong shape as well as deep. Sorry Fe, but at least you may have got a day or two off work.

The dinner tonight had tandoori chicken and tandoori fish with nan (proper nan bread), dal and I felt duty bound to dig in to make up for the lack of protein I'm undoubtedly suffering.

Some of the more mature (?) lady volunteers are setting to organise a trip to Aggra this weekend, but since there seems to be some petty arguing between them already about what hotel to stay in much less the cost, I think I may go on my own.

Regards to the readers! Namaste!!
Tom

Tuesday, 3 February 2009

Professor Moriarty a.k.a. the mad one goes back to school

Day two at St Trinians or as it is formally known as, the Habitat Learning Centre! With the Habitat name you'd think Terence Conran had his hands in this, and to be truthful I think he has as the place is really nice to be in except it is very large and I got lost trying to get back to where I was yesterday! Still it seems that although I'm late most of the pupils are too, so it is no great embarrassment. (Indian Time as I was told is flexible and never to be confused with GMT).

Without a formal syllabus yet (the dept head is still missing), I run another ad-hoc session with testing their reading as the key point, and where there is words which people don't understand we have a discussion on its meaning and I get them all to write it in their books. We also had a session on questions Why, Where, When, What and How; which is the right one to use and then getting them to practice on each other and me as a dummy! No comments necessary on that last remark, although note for Sean Hyland!! Your comments did come through so you've been kidding everyone in Chevron about your IT capabilities, you obviously know more than you're letting on. The session was good and I think we all enjoyed it as pupils from another class were trying to get in, so that's a positive sign.

Early evening had us all back at the base and we were treated to an exhibition of classical Indian dance and music, which I as well as all the women thought was brilliant. The Guru in charge of the girls was herself a classical dancer for many years and now teaches as well as running a formal group who perform at various functions in Delhi. I don't want to sound too much like a willie woofter, but I was genuinely fascinated by the grace, elegance and movement (all of which has separate meanings) and the music too was a change from Bagra or whatever they call Bollywood music.

I've been asked if I'd mind one of the ladies coming to work with me at the Habitat as she's not at all comfortable where work is at present. No problem and since she's a retired headmistress I can learn from her which should help all concerned.

Footnote to anyone thinking I'm in danger of turning into a veggie, we had pizza and ice cream tonight and there was chicken on the pizza. Ya beauty!!

Monday, 2 February 2009

In at the deep end

This morning I'm taken to the facility I'm going to be working at to meet the staff, there's only one there and after a brief chat the students started to arrive, without further ado it's suggested that I start right away! The kids are from 14 to 20 year old and have varying degrees of English ability, but in for a penny in for a pound, so I have to get started sometime and now is as good a time as any! The group of ten are mixed and we end up getting on like a house on fire, it's good to here all their reasons for wanting to improve their English, but the one I liked is a young lady who tells me she wants to be independent as opposed to being a lawyer, doctor or something else. In view of the society rules here in respect of women's roles I admire her spirit!

The facility in which I'm placed is enormous and palatial, with an arts complex, music and drama workshops and a fully funtional I.T. department in which we're based. It even has free coffee outside the door of the class, so when I compare my placement with the ladies (who're working in almost primitive conditions within the slum areas) I've got the pick of the bunch.

The very noticeable aspect of the class is the respect in which anyone in authority is held, I'm finding this strange to deal with as this level of return from them is not the norm in my world, but it is endearing to be addressed to so politely and I'm mindful of their culture so I need to keep some level of formality when I'd normally kick the formality into touch.

I need to structure some learning in accordance with their syllabus, but as yet don't have that as the co-ordinator for their course wasn't here this morning and it truly was sink or swim! I'm sure it will work out okay and am looking forward to spending the next 8 weeks in their company and helping them express themselves, as they are really very genuine and interesting people.

Back to base in the afternoon for "Hindi lessons" (compulsory), but a help in any event. Then the group were broken up into teams and sent out to carry out tasks in the local market and surrounds. Shanta and I were set the task of finding out the cost and details of inclusions in hiring a car & driver for a trip to Agra/Jaipur, negotiate for discounts and then hire a rickshaw taxi back to base. I must admit that I didn't do the haggling bit with the poor guy who picked us up and took us home as the fare for his journey was only 20 rupees and to take 10 off of that would have been an act of daylight robbery! Maybe I'm slipping since I left Chevron and SCM!

Sunday, 1 February 2009

More veggie stuff

Now we've all gathered finally and I almost slept in this morning only being wakened by what I thought was an air raid siren. It turns out to be the start operation at a factory close by! We're taken out to lunch in a restaurant after the morning spent discussing what we want to get out of the experience, and a wee introduction by everyone to the group. The restaurant is first class and even I enjoyed the vegetarian meal (again). For a carnivore like me this is disconcerting, but the veggie stuff here isn't what I'd have classed as veggie and is delicious.

After some early afternoon paperwork to finally finish the admin side of things and be given our i.d. cards I have enough free time to get myself a #cut-throat# razor shave and head massage for a hundred rupees. What a bargain as there is nearly 70rps to the pound. My face feels like a baby's backside, which is an improvement as most people think it looks like a backside anyway.

Tomorrow I go the the learning centre where the work of grooming teenagers begins, but before anyone gets the wrong idea, this is not internet grooming! I tried to explain that to Bela this morning, as grooming now in the internet era has an entirely different meaning. Mentoring would be a better term, so Celtic can expect to inrease their fan base. The weather is just perfect and with the temperature circa 76f it is better than summer in Abz.